Why would you ever want to leave?
This boutique hotel in Todos Santos, Baja California Sur is decorated in a funky, eclectic style. From the moment you step into the Hotel California’s colorful lobby, you’ll realize that this is a very special place. From the chipping paint on the facade to the worn but cozy furniture, this building has a sense of its own history but also exudes a worldly threadbare elegance.
The question everyone asks is: Is this the hotel made famous in the song by The Eagles? There is some dispute about this question. Read on to find out more about the hotel and its history.
According to the hotel website, an enterprising Chinese immigrant to Mexico by the name of Mr. Wong founded the hotel in 1947. At the time of its opening, the hotel had 16 rooms and the owner lived on site along with his Mexican wife and their seven children. Hoping to integrate fully into Mexican society, Mr. Wong changed his name to Don Antonio Tabasco, but in the Mexican custom of calling people by a nickname, he was always known to locals as “El Chino.”
“El Chino” had ice brought from La Paz and for some time the hotel’s restaurant and bar served the only cold beer in town. He was very successful and opened a general store on the first floor of the hotel which was called “El Popular.” He later built a gas station right next to the hotel.
Little is known about the hotel’s fate from the 1960s through the 1980s, but there are many legends, including one that it was at one point owned by members of The Eagles band – undoubtedly a complete fabrication.
By the 1990s the hotel had become sadly neglected. In 2001 a Canadian couple, John and Debbie Stewart, purchased the hotel and gave it the extensive makeover that gives it its present-day look. The number of rooms has been reduced to eleven, and there is a profusion of artwork from around the world as well as greenery decorating the brightly painted spaces.
The Hotel from the Eagles Song?
You drive a desert highway to get there and the sound of mission bells can clearly be heard from the hotel, but is the Hotel California in Todos Santos the hotel referred to in the Eagles song?
Hotel California was released by The Eagles in 1976. The song is the title track of their album by the same name and is considered by many to be one of the best rock songs ever, landing spot #49 on Rolling Stone magazine’s list of greatest songs of all time.
Over the years a great many interpretations about the meaning of the top hit have surfaced. Some allege that it refers to a hotel in San Francisco that was turned into a church of Satan and the song is about Satanism. Others believe that the song talks about drug addiction and the hedonistic rock n roll lifestyle of the 1970s. The songwriters deny that the song refers to an actual hotel. In the 2013 documentary History of the Eagles, Henley states that the song is about “a journey from innocence to experience…that’s all.”
Though most interpretations of the song are purely allegorical, there are a few striking similarities between the hotel described in the song and the Hotel California in Todos Santos. A few key lines of the song invariably lead people to suppose that this hotel is the one where “you can check out but you can never leave.” Regardless of whether The Eagles were actually singing about this particular hotel, the idea certainly captures the imaginations of those who visit.
The bar at the Hotel California is decorated in a particularly appealing way, with local and imported metal decorations. Contrary to what you may have heard, they do serve wine here, though tequila tends to be the beverage of choice. Try the house margarita or the jalapeño margarita that has a fun kick to it.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in La Coronela restaurant. Mexican dishes with an emphasis on fresh vegetables and seafood are the main menu offerings. The restaurant setting in a colorful outdoor patio with a fountain and lots of Mexican art make for a very pleasant dining experience.
Each of the Hotel California’s 11 guest rooms is uniquely decorated in eye-catching colors and original art. The furnishings are of dark wood and iron, and fabrics are in deep reds, blues, and greens. The beds are comfortable and each room is equipped with air conditioning and ceiling fan.
One of the most appealing spaces of the Hotel California is the Penthouse Suite’s rooftop terrace. This is an expansive space with a variety of chairs and loungers. On a clear day, you can see the ocean in the distance.
Besides the artwork that you’ll find enlivening spaces throughout the hotel, there is a small art gallery at the Hotel California. When I visited there was an exhibit of paintings by artist Gabriel Rodriguez who hails from La Paz and is not only an accomplished visual artist but has also won awards for his literary creations.
The Boutique: Emporium
No excursion to Todos Santos would be complete without buying something to remember the trip, and the boutique of the Hotel California is the perfect spot to find that special something. The boutique is aptly named “Emporium” and offers a wide variety of colorful tchotchkes, objets d’art, jewelry, clothing and specialty food items. You can also nab some of the Hotel California’s signature tequila here.
The Hotel California is located on the main street of Todos Santos, some 40 miles north of Los Cabos. Whether you choose to come to stay, or just make a stop for lunch and some shopping on a day trip from Los Cabos, Hotel California is definitely worth a visit.
Contact the Hotel California:
Address: Benito Juarez corner of Morelos and Marquez de Leon
Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, CP 23305 Mexico
Phone: +52 (612) 145-0525
Website: www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com
